We tested the Domaine de Rochebois, its Nuxe spa and its restaurant above the Dordogne valley

A hotel returning a star is something that almost never happens. French hotel classification is a staircase you climb: you invest, you add services, you request an inspection, you earn a star and display it on the facade. Domaine de Rochebois did the exact opposite, voluntarily.

When it was taken over in May 2024, this 40-room establishment nestled on the heights of Vitrac, ten minutes from Sarlat-la-Canéda, requested a downgrade from 5 to 4 stars. Not to skimp on amenities · which remained untouched · but to remove the symbolic barrier that kept locals in the Périgord at a distance from a place they used to look at from the road without ever stepping inside.

We spent a test stay there. Here is what this gamble changed, and what it left untouched.

A promontory above the Dordogne

You arrive via a tree-lined driveway, and the landscape suddenly unfolds: the Dordogne flowing below, the woods, the countryside stretching towards the hills. The address owes its appeal first to its layout · an estate perched on a promontory, featuring French-style gardens aligned with the main building and an outdoor swimming pool overlooking the valley.

One point that matters if it is what brought you here: the estate’s golf course closed for good on 8 August 2025. The course was what set the address apart, a rarity for a forty-room property when most countryside hotels send their golfers twenty minutes away. The hotel, the restaurant and the spa have not changed.

The property can be explored on foot without ever crossing a road. This is what sets Rochebois apart from a city-centre hotel of the same category: here, space is part of the experience. A detail you won’t find in brochures: a small stone chapel is hidden in the estate’s woodlands, a few minutes from the main building. No one guides you there. You simply stumble upon it.

The estate, the grounds and the Dordogne valley

The must-visit moment takes place in the early evening on the restaurant terrace. Facing the sunset, the valley comes alive with hot-air balloons drifting over the estate at the end of the day, while notes from a live concert drift up from the terrace. It lasts half an hour, and it is the exact reason guests return.

Why Rochebois gave up its fifth star

The French 5-star rating imposes a strict framework: staff ratios, service hours, room sizes, concierge services. Above all, it creates expectations, both for guests and for those who dare not push open the door. Under the impetus of its manager, Mickaël Thepaut, the property took the opposite approach to standard hotel reflexes.

We welcome our guests with genuine care to make them feel at ease in a place dedicated primarily to rest and relaxation. The primary challenge upon taking over was to regain the trust of locals and make this exceptional, open-to-all venue accessible.

Mickaël Thepaut, manager of Domaine de Rochebois

Publicité

This gamble proves successful in practice, and it is what drives our rating. The architecture, gardens, quality of materials, spa and dining: none of these have been downgraded. What has changed is the tone of the welcome and the entry price. For readers, the consequence is simple: you get a level of service here that elsewhere would cost 5-star rates.

It is worth noting what the fourth star entails, and this is no flaw of the establishment: the 4-star classification sets lesser requirements than the 5-star in terms of service hours and staffing. Those seeking the concierge service of an urban palace or around-the-clock room service won’t find it here · and that is not the vision of the place, which proudly focuses on tranquility.

In the rooms, nothing has been compromised

Forty rooms and suites, spread between the main building and the outbuildings. The entry-level categories open directly onto the grounds via an arched French door · a pleasant surprise, as these rooms are often the least favored elsewhere. Under the eaves, the exposed woodwork remains visible.

It is in the bathrooms that the preservation of quality is most evident: brass fixtures, gilded mirrors, bathtubs and walk-in showers coexisting in the superior categories. Nothing here suggests an establishment that has cut corners. The housekeeping team, led by Louise Ringoot with Laurence Lefeuvre as executive housekeeper, maintains an impeccable standard of cleanliness and upkeep throughout the stay.

The forty rooms and their bathrooms

A booking tip rather than a reservation: categories differ as much in character as in size, ranging from a ground-floor park-view room to an attic room and a Deluxe with balcony. Ask for a valley view, as it transforms the stay.

The Nuxe Spa and its pool overlooking the countryside

The spa is branded by Nuxe and managed by spa manager Lucie Marien, who curates seasonal wellness treatments rather than sticking to a fixed menu. The standout feature can be summed up in one line: the indoor pool is not subterranean. It is set between stone columns, facing large bay windows opening onto the countryside · you swim while admiring the landscape rather than a tiled wall.

The Nuxe Spa and its pool opening onto the countryside

Treatments follow the brand’s signature protocols. In high season, book your slots at the same time as your room: the estate balances local clientele and international visitors from June onwards, and the spa fills up accordingly.

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At Le M, Périgord meets Vietnam

This is the most unexpected part of the stay. In the kitchen, chef Paul Pettini works with Périgord terroir produce, blending them with Vietnamese flavors brought back from his years spent in Asia. The approach is far from superficial: it alters the balance of the dishes, lightening a regional cuisine traditionally known for its richness. In the dining room, Elia Rey oversees the entire experience, from breakfast to Sunday brunch.

Le M, Bar Joséphine and breakfast

One instruction and one only: request a table on the valley side, and dine early. The first seating catches the sunset and passing hot-air balloons. Bar Joséphine then takes over for drinks.

Sarlat and Périgord Noir, just ten minutes away

Staying at Rochebois also means choosing a destination. Périgord Noir is best explored castle by castle, and several can be reached in under twenty minutes from the estate. The valley’s villages nestle beneath cliffs, and Sarlat-la-Canéda is just ten minutes away.

Sarlat and Périgord Noir, around the estate

The demographic tells a story about the destination. From June onwards, visitors are evenly split between locals and international travelers, with a notable American presence alongside traditional European markets · British, German, Spanish, Belgian · and a growing clientele from Italy and Switzerland.

One important point for those hesitating over the season: the region does not close down for winter. The tourist office promotes a schedule that starts in April and runs year-round · including the Christmas market and truffle festival in winter, “Février Gourmand” with its gastronomic themed tours, “Fest’oie” in March, and the ongoing development of hiking trails led by a dedicated project manager.

Whatever the weather, Périgord Noir offers such a diversity of natural and cultural sites that you will always find something to enjoy. It is a 100% guarantee for a successful holiday.

Sébastien Degrange, Managing Director of the Sarlat Tourist Office